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Han Ying sees off her visitors on the doorstep of her ancient house on July 30, 2009. [Photo: CRIENGLISH.com]

Han has told me that a wealthy family in the past would use a shiny red coffin to carry a bride's dowry to the bridegroom's house. That symbolized "sheng guan fa cai," or literally, an upcoming promotion in the imperial court and more fortune in the future for the groom. I recalled having seen a red coffin inside Ye's Ancestral Hall.

Despite the economic downturn, more tourists than ever are coming to visit Han's house. Now I understand why this place has become so popular.

Han Ying lives a simple and peaceful life in the old house and communication with people from the outside is part of her greatest pleasure. One of her guests, an architecture professor, once helped her determine the figures on the vintage carvings in her house. Another friend from Nanjing first came to her inn in 2001 and now visits her almost every year.

Han planned to treat us to some "xi ge dan cha," a local food made of egg, which was traditionally offered to guests when they visit, but only to find she had no more left. So she laid out all the desserts she had on a full table. She said because of the rain, she had stored the desserts in a cupboard so they would retain their flavor.

Much has changed in Nanping from ancient times to the present - for instance, the feudal order, the rigorous patriarchal system and many of the local customs. The ancestral halls are almost entirely empty, and many other rituals are gradually fading away. But the diligent and intellectual host, Han Ying, said she would do her best to keep things as they were in the past.

When we were about to leave, Han stepped out and stood in front of her ancient house for quite a long time to see us off with the same sincere and attractive smile that she had when she greeted us.

(CRI August 5, 2009)