Outside of the West Gate, locals sell yak yogurt, fried potatoes, and hard-boiled eggs if you need a quick snack. The nearby market sells mostly cheap souvenirs, but more interesting shopping can be had on the road descending from the East Gate. Lining Tuanjie South Road (Tuanjie Nan Lu, 團(tuán)結(jié)南路) are small shops catering mostly to the religious visitors. You'll find religious objects such as prayer beads, vajras, monks' robes, butter lamps, yak butter, wicks, and peacock feathers, as well as secular products directed toward the nomadic population, namely coral and turquoise jewelry, thick robes, fur belts, and chiseled metal decorative pieces that nomad women braid into their hair.

A storeowner chiseling a metal bowl on Tuanjie South Road. [Photo by Lola Boatwright]

Whether you're a seasoned Buddhist or a complete novice to Tibetan culture, Kumbum Monastery is an essential stop on your Qinghai itinerary. Don't be shy to turn some prayer wheels, offer incense and money, and greet the monks with a polite "Demo".

Monk of Kumbum Monastery.[Photo by Lola Boatwright]

Directions: In Xining, capital of Qinghai Province, take a bus or taxi to Kunlun Bridge (Kunlun qiao, 昆侖橋). From there, you can take a bus or private car to Kumbum Monastery (Ta'er si, 塔爾寺).